much area does one yard of concrete cover?
a depth of 4", one yard of concrete will cover
an 8' x 10' area (80 sq. ft).
a depth of 5", one yard covers 65 sq. ft.
a depth of 6", one yard covers 54 sq. ft.
a depth of 3.5", one yard covers 93 sq. ft
a depth of 3", one yard covers 108 sq. ft
much does one yard of concrete weigh?
single yard of concrete weighs roughly two tons (4000
is the stand by time?
are given 10 minutes per yard to unload the truck. Any
time after that is $2 per minute.
many wheelbarrows does one yard fill?
on the size of the wheelbarrow and how full you fill it,
one yard generally fills 9- 10 wheelbarrows.
long does it take for the concrete to set up?
all depends on the temperature of the day. In hot weather
the concrete sets up quicker (couple hours). In colder
weather it can take up to 12- 24 hours to set up. Hot
water and additives may help increase this time.
is cured (full strength) in 28 days. Refer to "curing"
under the Tips for Homeowners section.
big are the trucks?
trucks are 10 feet wide at the mirrors, about 8 feet
wide in the back and 12.5 feet tall. When fully loaded
they weigh 54,000 pounds.
Thickness : Four (4) inches is generally a sufficient depth
for parking areas, driveways, hot tub pads etc. More depth
may be beneficial to areas that are higher traffic or will
contain heavier loads.
Base: Compacted earth may be entirely adequate as a base
for residential concrete, however compacted rock is recommended
in all applications of concrete placement. Base rock is
usually ¾" minus to 1" minus crushed.
Drainage or slope: The surface of the finished slab should
slope at least 1/8 inch per foot away from structures for
drainage. A slope of ¼ inch per foot is best.
Excavating: Remove all organic matter and sludge, but don't
excavate deeper than necessary. Place base rock of a minimum
Compaction: Soil on which concrete is to be placed must
be compacted uniformly and evenly so the slab won't settle
and vary in thickness. This also prevents shifting and cracking
of the concrete in the future.
Concrete Forms: You can form a 4" slab using 2 x 4's.
Remove any loose materials from the edge to insure full
thickness around the perimeter of your pour. Stake securely.
Joint Material: A barrier separating existing concrete from
new concrete is necessary, and must extend to the bottom
of the slab to insure complete separation. Pre-molded material
can be used, and should be placed against existing buildings,
slabs, steps, walls, etc.
Strength: 3000 P.S.I. (5 sack mix) should suffice for most
projects. The higher the concentration of cement (reflected
in the sack mix or p.s.i. - pound per square inch), the
greater the curing strength. Regardless of the mix, complete
curing will take about 28 days.
Slump: A slump of about 5" is normally sufficient.
A slump greater than 4" will extend the time needed
for finishing, especially in the cool weather. Higher slumps
will also increase the potential for shrinkage and cracking.
Admixtures: Various products are available to accelerate
or retard setting, reduce water content and increase the
plasticity of the concrete.
Calculating: Measure the length, width and depth of the
area that will be filled with concrete. A one inch difference
in a 10' x 10' pad means approximately 21% more concrete,
so measure carefully. Calculate the amount of concrete needed.
There is a calculator on this
site for you to use.
Call Mini Mix Concrete to reserve a delivery time slot for
the amount of concrete needed. Allow 1 -2 days notice during
the winter months and roughly a week's notice in the spring
and summer months.
Filling Forms: Chute, wheel or shovel the concrete to its
final position rather than dumping it in piles and then
pushing or raking it to the desired location.
Leveling: "Screed" the concrete. Screeding is
the process of leveling the concrete by using a 2 x 4 in
a sawing motion over the concrete. It is also recommended
that the forms be gently tapped from the outside to eliminate
any air pockets. Immediately use wood or mag bull float
to level out the high and low spots. At this time you can
also edge the concrete with an edging tool. Do not do anything
more to the surface until the water sheen disappears.
Timing: After the water sheen is gone (the water is done
bleeding to the top), joint, edge and texture as desired.
Final finish: A broom finish is the most common finish,
particularly for driveways, sidewalks and other exterior
areas. A broom finish is also recommended for areas that
may get wet and slippery. Machine floating and steel troweling
are not recommended for exterior surfaces.
Control joints can be added with a hand tool or a
saw, and must be cut at least ¼ of the thickness
of the slab. Joints must be continuous and straight;
not staggered or offset. The spacing is 10 foot max,
and square sections are preferable. Control joints
should be made after all finishing and curing applications
are done, and as soon as the concrete has sufficiently
hardened to allow sawing without raveling.
Over-finishing: Over-finishing is the single biggest
contributor to surface deterioration. Over-finishing
pulls too many of the fine materials to the top, thus
weakening the surface strength. Also, do not use a
steel trowel on concrete that will be exposed to the
Curing: Newly cured concrete should have a period of uninhibited
exposure to the air before being sealed. A surface cure
can be applied after final texturing is complete, and should
not mar the concrete surface.
Curing is one of the most important steps in concrete construction.
Effective curing is essential to good surface durability.
Fresh concrete must be kept warm and moist until the water
and cement hydrate (combine chemically). This is what hardens
the concrete and gives it its strength.
Warm weather: The most common method of curing is to spray
or roll the slab surface after finishing to prevent premature
drying. The rate of application should be consistent with
the manufacturer's instructions. Water can be used in place
of a cure if the surface can be kept wet for three days.
Cold weather: Newly poured concrete cannot freeze for at
least a week. Only adequate insulation or heating will maintain
proper curing temperatures during freezing weather.
Do not use a curing method that will allow the surface to
dry in a short time. Concrete that dries too quickly is
more likely to show surface cracking. Membrane curing is
not sufficient, nor does the use of accelerants prevent
concrete from freezing.
First Winter: Do not use salt or other deicers during the
first winter. Use sand instead to improve traction. Even
light applications of salt, or salt carried on cars may
cause severe scaling of newly placed concrete. Fertilizers
are not an acceptable deicer at any time.
Drainage: Proper drainage will help avoid saturating the
Sealing: Sealing and curing are not the same. Water repellent
coatings or sealers inhibit water from getting into surface
pores and help prevent damage from freezing, thawing and
salt. Newly cured concrete should have a period of air-drying
before being sealed.
- CONCRETE MAY CAUSE EYE OR SKIN INJURY
Mini Mix Concrete contains Portland cement. Use of this product
without protective clothing could cause bodily injury. Every
effort should be taken to avoid contact with skin. If any
cement or cement mixtures get into the eye or comes in contact
with the skin, flush immediately and repeatedly with water
and consult a physician promptly.